PROFILE OF VARANASI

Heritage Resources

People and Culture

Varanasi is the microcosm of Hinduism, a city of traditional classical culture, glorified by myth and legend and sanctified by religion; it has always attracted a large number of pilgrims and worshippers from time immemorial. Being among the holiest city of Hindus, the impact of the religion is found everywhere in the city- the chanting of bells, the recitation of Sanskrit hymns, the fragrant flower offerings, the colored powders sold in roadside shops. The city is a holy site for sacred baths in the Ganga River. Varanasi has also been a great center of learning for ages. Varanasi is associated with promotion of spiritualism, mysticism, yoga, Sanskrit, and Hindi language. It is highly regarded as the cultural capital of India, Traditional cultural activities continue to flourish here. Many exponents of dance and music have come from Varanasi.

The city of Varanasi is unique in the architectural, artistic and religious expressions of traditional Indian culture and is, even today, a living example of this culture. Since ancient times the natural and cultural landscape of the city has retained an active social role in contemporary society, closely associated with the traditional way of life. Ghats with stairways alongside the Ganga with “dying homes”, charitable homes, rest houses for pilgrims, are some of the city’s unique characteristics. Numerous festivals are celebrated that preserve the traditional styles of classical and folk culture. Musical concerts are organized at Sankat Mochan Temple, Hori, Kajri, Chaiti Mela and Budwa Mangal, which are annual events that draw connoisseurs from all over.

Built Heritage

The architectural heritage of Varanasi is linked strongly since centuries, to the living cultural and religious traditions of three major religions- Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism and is the most important religious pilgrimage destination for its adherents. Varanasi comprises of the old city area, central area and new area. The unique directional change of the sacred Ganga led to the development of the ancient city, Kashi, on the west banks of the river, facing the rising of the sun and making thus the Ghats of Varanasi sacred for all Hindu rituals. The western bank of the river is marked by lofty palatial buildings built mostly by kings and feudal lords from different parts of India between eighteenth and twentieth century. Stone steps flank the river on its western bank and lead down from the city to the river water. These steps are called “Ghats” and although they seem to be a continuous stretch of stairs, they were built in different historical moments. There are around 40 to 60 stone steps on each ghat, depending on the height of these ghats. The area along the ghats is dominated by various shrines and temples. The ghats are marked by octagonal raised platforms built for public use and smaller rectangular platforms that are closer to the river, built for use by the Brahmins for religious rituals. This is where the ritual bathing of the pilgrims and the daily bathing of the inhabitants of the city take place. The ghats are also a place for sports, exercise, meditation, socialising and rest.

The palatial buildings along the ghats were built under the patronage of the Marathas during 18th -19th centuries. During the period between the late 18th and 20th century, along the riverfront many monasteries (ashramas), Sanskrit schools, temples, and pilgrims rest house were built by principalities, of different parts of India, like Peshvas of Pune (Gujarat), Holkar of Indore, and Scindhias of Gwalior (Madhya Pradesh), Bhonshalas of Nagpur (Maharashtra), Sursand, Bhabhua, and Darbhanga estates of Bihar, Rani Bhavani of Bengal, kings of Nepal etc. In the 19th-20th century many ghats were re-constructed, re-named and reshaped.

Architecture in the old city area dates back to just after Afghan invasion, and in the central and new city, it is less than 150 years old. Their number at present reaches over 3000 Hindu shrines and a few Buddhist, Jain and Sikh shrines. There are no structures pre-dating the 13th century. There are fragmentary remains such as the Lat Bhairo mentioned above, probably of Ashokan provenance, and a fifth century image of Krishna, two metres in height, holding up Mount Govardhana. The oldest fragment found at Rajghat is a stone sculpture showing three yaksha figures dating back to the 1-2nd century BC.

The city's architecture mirrors the fluctuation of its fortunes. Mosques and tombs came up in the Sultanate period, but there was no Hindu building activity until the reign of Akbar, when Man Singh and Todar Mal initiated the refurbishing of temples and ghats. The destruction of the three greatest temples took place under the orders of Aurangzeb, there is no Hindu sanctuary pre-dating his reign that is still extant.

The temples built subsequently were in a variety of styles, ranging from the North Indian with a curved or steeply angled shikhara, to the Nepali and the Maratha architecture. Among the temples, the Panchakroshi temple is the most unique sanctuary in this unparalleled heritage. If Varanasi represents the universe, and its architecture represents the subcontinent, the Panchakroshi is the city in miniature, a built map in three dimensions. Worshippers circumambulating it thereby perform a darshan of the city itself. Carved representations of deities located in 104 shrines along the pilgrimage route are set in niches covering the walls. For a Hindu raja, a shrine in the holy city was an emblem of piety and the culture of the state he ruled, and those with a taste for novelty borrowed Muslim and even European elements, creating an eclectic mix.

The 18th century saw a revival, as Varanasi, situated on one of the great riverside arteries, became a major trading centre. The influx of itinerant traders and businessmen led to the building of structures to shelter travellers — dharamshalas for Hindus and caravan/serais for Muslims. Since Varanasi has always been important for religious purposes, kings, rich merchants and others who could afford built houses in Varanasi so that their members could come and stay here in the auspicious city. These gave a distinctive form to the cityscape and this is an important heritage asset as the ghats, forts, palaces, temples, mosques and other significant architectural heritage dotting the city. The old city of Varanasi which extends from the river for around 2 km is home to a maze of alleyways and streets, so narrow, only bicycles can negotiate them. The Muslim quarter, most of the temples, mosques, ashrams (learning centres), the vegetable shops and budget accommodation can be found here giving it a typical characteristic.

In the 19th century, the British introduced a new type of architecture. Bungalows with tiled roofs, each set in a spacious walled garden, came up in the cantonment.

Natural Heritage

The Ganges considered the most holy river for the Hindus, is especially sacred in Varanasi where its course towards the Bay of Bengal suddenly turns to the north. From its source in the Himalaya to its mouth in the Bay of Bengal, covering a course of about 2525km, only in Varanasi does the Ganga river flow in a crescent shape meandering from south to north (length 6.5km). This peculiar shape is the result of fluvial process through which the coarser sediments get deposited on its western bank between Raj Ghat in the north and Samne Ghat in the south. The portion between these two points a hillock-like geologic feature, called natural levée, consists of nearly 60m bed of clay with coarse grained sand, limestone concretion (kankar) and gravel. Another similar ridge like formation exists on the other side at Ramanagar where there is the fort. This peculiar geological formation changes the flow of the Ganga in a half-circular shape. This sharp-bend meander is only observed in Varanasi throughout its course.

This unique geological formation has provided the base for the growth of the city in a crescent shape, symbolically described as crescent moon on the forehead of Lord Shiva. In terms of river ecology, this characteristic is also considered as the unique aspect of energy quantum and direction of the energy flow. In fact, this whole bed of the Ganga River is an example of natural heritage. The area along the right side is a flood plain, preserving the natural ecosystem. Thus the natural heritage of the city, in the form of the river, predominates and strongly influences the nature and characteristics of the religious and sacred importance of the city.

Literature, Arts and Crafts

Varanasi is one of the oldest living cities in the world and its prominence in Hindu mythology is unrivalled. Varanasi has its own culture of fine art and literature. Great Indian writers have lived in this city including Kabir, Ravidas, Tulsidas who wrote much of his Ramayana here, Kulluka Bhatt who wrote the best known commentary of Manusmriti lived here in 15th century.

Varanasi has many living traditions in Indian sciences and arts. In this city are experts, researchers, students and practitioners of ancient Indian sciences like astrology, Vastushastra (traditional architecture), teachings in Sanskrit and religious texts (in still existing traditional Sanskrit schools), Yoga, Ayurveda and massage techniques etc. Dhanvantari or Divodasa, the father of traditional Indian medicine or Ayurveda was one of the earliest kings of this city and Shushruta, the father of Indian surgery too was educated in Varanasi.

The Banarasi music and dance traditions are manifested in a special local style known as the Banaras Gharana (style). Many great musicians and performing artists have been born here and still regularly return to visit and to perform for the public as their tribute to the spirit of the soil. Some of the world renowned exponents India has produced in these fields were schooled in Varanasi’s cultural ethos. The city has been associated with art lovers, and renowned historians and musicians, like Rai Krishnadasa, musicians like Pt. Omkarnath Thakur, Pt. Ravi Shankar, Ustad Bismillah Khan and numerous others have kept the city alive to the spiritual aspect of fine arts apart from their ability to entertain.

Historically Varanasi was a commercial and industrial center famous for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture. Varanasi is today famous for its association with the art of silk weaving, an exotic work of art which manifests itself in precious Banarasi silk sarees and silk brocades which are cherished as collector’s items across the world today. Apart from that, silk weaving, sari making, metal, wood and terracotta handicrafts, toy making, particular painting forms, constitute the continued historical and cultural tradition of Varanasi.